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Peering through an opening between the black wooden fences lining
the streets, an old samurai residence can be spotted, half hidden
behind the shrubbery yet standing with stately dignity. The
residences presently open to the public are: the Ishiguro, Aoyagi,
Matsumoto, Iwahashi, Kawarada and Onoda residences, all of which
line the Bukeyashiki-dori Street. The green garden covered with
moss and the white plastered walls of the storehouse are in
stark contrast to the dark-colored fences and the greenery,
thus painting a beautiful image of old Japan. People call the
town the "Little Kyoto of the Tohoku region." This
is because the town of Kakunodate bears some resemblance to
Kyoto and it actually has a close relationship with it. The
founder and the second generation of the Satake-Kita family,
with a distinguished lineage of over 200 years or 11 generations
since 1656, wed wives with noble bloodline from Kyoto. The brides
brought graceful Kyoto culture with them, which is why evidence
of subtle gracefulness can be seen here and there in this northern
town.
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The vicinity of the Bukeyashiki-dori is designated as a Traditional
Architectural Preservation District of Japan. The appearance
of the town is preserved through the efforts of the townsfolk,
and members of the History Guides' Association guide tourists
through the town. The Ishiguro residence, located on the northern
end of the Bukeyashiki-dori street, is the oldest among the
samurai residences in Kakunodate that were built two centuries
ago. The fifteenth head of the Ishiguros still resides here.
The main building has two entrances, one at the front and another
on the side, a sign that the residence belonged to a high-ranking
samurai. It is not surprising, though, because the Ishiguro
served the Satake-Kita family, holding responsible positions.
Intricate handiwork can be found inside the house, such as the
fan light with a beautiful brattishing.
It is believed that samurais kept the use of fire to a minimum
inside the residence, out of fear that it might cause fire.
This plain and practical lifestyle of the samurai may be the
very reason that so many wooden buildings still exist in Kakunodate.
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In order to earn a livelihood, the samurai took up birch tree
craft during the Edo period. They stripped off the bark of wild
cherry trees, straightened them, and glued them onto a wood
base using a trowel. The procedure requires great attention,
so this plain art of birch craft is the product of the serious
and patient efforts of the samurai. Tea canisters, cigarette
cases, inkstone cases and other high quality products are still
crafted today. Sophistication and warmth are features that both
the birch craft and the town of Kakunodate share.
At the north end of the Bukeyashiki-dori Street, there is a
beautiful building styled after northern European style architecture.
It is the Hirafuku Memorial Art Museum. The museum has a collection
of works by a famous Japanese painter from Kakunodate, Hirafuku
Suian and his son, Hyakusui.
The spring season brings cherry blossoms to Kakunodate. In summer,
the green is fresh and vivid to the eye. The autumn leaves blanket
the town in shades of red and orange and in winter, black and
white dominate the stark landscape. Kakunodate is a place where
tourists can truly savor the beauty of the Tohoku region throughout
the year.
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