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Although the Tohoku region has had a high level of culture from
ancient times, this fact is not widely known. The sophisticated
culture of the Emishi people flourished in Tohoku during the
same period as that of the advanced cultures of Nara and Kyoto,
although little has been written about it. With a strong economy
based on gold, the people of the region led prosperous lives.
However, after Sakanoue no Tamuramaro conquered the native Emishi
people, the culture declined and influences from western Japan
seeped into the Tohoku region. In 850, Chusonji was built by
Jikaku Daishi Ennin as a temple of the Tendai sect.
350 years after this temple was founded, Fujiwara Kiyohira moved
to the area after victory in battle. Over a period of 100 years,
Kiyohira and his descendants Motohira and Hidehira rebuilt Chusonji
using sources of gold in the area to build a great Buddhist
empire independent of Kyoto. This large-scale temple complex
contained 40 buildings with 300 priests in residence.
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Snow-covered
Konjikido Hall. An outer structure was built to protect the
inner hall.
The
Konjikido amidst fall foliage. |
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Morning
view of the Tsukimizaka slope |
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However, in 1337, a fire destroyed almost everything except
for a portion of the Konjikido and Kyozo Halls. On the main
approach to the temple, ancient cypress trees line the pathway
so that visitors walking up the Tsukimizaka slope can recall
the past days of glory.
Built in 1124, the Konjikido Hall was designated a National
Treasure in its original form. The Konjikido is the final resting
place for three generations of Fujiwara leaders and the decapitated
head of Yasuhira, the fourth leader, is buried here as well.
The gorgeous altar brings to mind scenes from paradise. Eleven
gold Buddhist statues are arranged in a row in this golden hall
which is embellished with gold leaf and other intricate designs
as well as lacquered "makie" that adorn the pillars
and dais. With the hall completely covered in gold up to the
roof, the Konjikido itself appears to be an object of art.
Over 3000 items designated as National Treasures and Important
Cultural Properties are stored here. However, only a very small
portion is put on display at a single time. Those who wish to
view all the treasures must make an annual trip.
The desire to achieve eternal glory by three generations of
Fujiwaras is reflected in the dazzling gold adornments and fixtures
of the Konjikido. This structure expresses the transient nature
of this world.
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